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The Vatican obelisk and the paving of St. Peter's Square seen from above

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The Obelisk and Bernini's Colonnade

St. Peter's Square is a work of art in its own right: an ancient Egyptian obelisk at its centre and Bernini's colonnade reaching out like two open arms. Here is what to look for.

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The obelisk and colonnade at a glance

The obelisk at the centre of St. Peter's Square is an ancient Egyptian monument of red granite, about 25 metres tall without its base. The Roman emperor Caligula brought it to Rome in the 1st century AD, and it was moved to its current spot in 1586.

Around it, Gian Lorenzo Bernini built the colonnade between 1656 and 1667 for Pope Alexander VII. He described it as the motherly arms of the Church, embracing everyone who arrives. The square is free and open to everyone.

1586obelisk moved to the square
284columns in four rows
140statues of saints on top
St. Peter's Square in Vatican City with St. Peter's Basilica and Bernini's colonnade

The story of the Vatican obelisk

Caligula had the obelisk shipped from Egypt to decorate the circus he built on the Vatican plain, later known as the Circus of Nero. According to tradition, St. Peter was martyred close to this circus, which gives the obelisk a special meaning: it is a silent witness to the place where the Church of Rome began. Unlike most obelisks in Rome, it has no hieroglyphs, and it is the only one that never fell after antiquity.

For centuries it stood beside the old basilica. In 1586, Pope Sixtus V ordered the architect Domenico Fontana to move it to the centre of the square. The operation took months of preparation and hundreds of workers and horses. A famous legend says that a sailor broke the order of silence by shouting "water on the ropes!" just as they began to smoke under the strain, saving the operation. A cross now crowns the top.

Bernini's colonnade: what to look for

Details most visitors walk past on their way to the basilica.

The magic spot

Between the obelisk and each fountain, a round stone in the paving marks the centre of the colonnade. Stand on it and the four rows of columns line up so perfectly that only one row seems to exist.

140 saints

Statues of saints, martyrs and founders of religious orders stand on top of the colonnade, carved by Bernini's workshop. They seem to look down on the pilgrims in the square.

The two fountains

Carlo Maderno built the fountain on the right in the early 17th century. Its twin on the left was added later in the same century to keep the square symmetrical.

Lines in the paving

The obelisk also works as the pointer of a giant sundial. Look for the meridian line and the marble discs of the wind rose set into the paving around it.

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Seeing the square at its best

For the full effect of Bernini's design, approach along Via della Conciliazione from the Tiber. The street was cut through the old Borgo district in the 20th century. Before that, visitors reached the square through narrow alleys, and the colonnade opened up in front of them as a surprise.

Early morning is the best time for photos, when the square is almost empty and the light falls on the façade. For the overview, climb the dome: from the top you see the keyhole shape of the square and the lines in the paving. In December, a nativity scene and a large Christmas tree stand next to the obelisk. More in our guide to the Vatican at Christmas.

On Wednesday mornings the square fills with chairs for the papal audience, and sections of the colonnade are fenced off.

Obelisk and colonnade: frequently asked questions

How old is the obelisk in St. Peter's Square?

It is an ancient Egyptian obelisk that was brought to Rome in the 1st century AD by the emperor Caligula. It has stood in the centre of the square since 1586.

How many columns does Bernini's colonnade have?

284 columns arranged in four rows, topped by 140 statues of saints.

Where is the spot where the columns line up?

On the round stones in the paving between the obelisk and each of the two fountains, marked as the centre of the colonnade.

Is St. Peter's Square free?

Yes. The square is free and open to everyone. Security checks only start at the entrance to the basilica.

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